A Moroccan Homestay

Morocco

Dec 15

View of two old buildings that are very close together, with sliver of sky visible in between

“Michael, check out what’s in the shower,” my wife excitedly whispered to me as she entered the bedroom. Not sure what to expect, I took a few short steps out of the room and into the single apartment’s bathroom. As I pulled open the curtain, I was greeted by a full bucket of…snails. They were crawling up and down the sides of the bucket, their antenna busily moving to and fro. It appeared that they had experienced a full wash down by our host mother, who was preparing them to serve later on. That evening we sat around the table and tried snails for the first time. To be honest, the experience was probably how you imagine them to taste. We used toothpicks to pull out the fleshly insides, and then plopped a single snail into our mouths. I don’t remember if I chewed, or just swallowed whole. We laughed together with our host family as we experienced a snack for the first time.

Laughter. That is something that I fondly remember during our three months of homestay with a Moroccan family. Whether it be our search for the TV remote, or our karaoke singing to Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On,” we laughed together. There were also times of difficulty as we tried to communicate cross-culturally and cross-linguistically. Even though there were some challenging experiences, both my wife and I learned a tremendous amount about Moroccan culture by living with a local family.

Moroccan living room with long row of couches and round table

Prior to us moving to Morocco, we coordinated with a homestay business about staying with a Moroccan family. Having experienced homestays in South America, my wife and I were excited to learn again through the process in Morocco. As I look back on our conversations with the homestay coordinator, I am again brought to laughter. There was a lot that we did not know before moving to Morocco, and that appeared in our initial conversations with the coordinator. “We would like our own bedroom with a private bathroom,” we requested early on. Because we were planning to do an extended homestay, the coordinator recommended we stay with a few different families to try to find the best fit. As it turned out, we stayed with four different families. On our first night with the first family, not only did we not have a private bathroom, but we did not have a private bedroom! Rather, the mother slept in the single bedroom, the children slept in the sitting salon, and my wife and I slept on the couches in the guest salon. The only thing separating us from the rest of the house was a curtain spread across the entrance to our salon. As we slept on separate couches, we layered up as the temperatures in the house fell below 60 degrees Fahrenheit and we could see our breath as we exhaled.

The next day, our host mother graciously served us breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack, and dinner. We showered in the small bathroom which did not have a separate shower but rather a hand-held showerhead. We learned later that many Moroccans shower at the public bathhouse (the hammam), at least those who leave in the old medinas. The following day, we were off to a different home to experience more of Moroccan culture. After we had stayed with a total of four families, both my wife and I felt most comfortable with a family who we ended up staying with for over two months. With this host family I realized that Celine Dion is popular among Moroccan women. Her heart really does go on…throughout the whole world.

Learn more about doing a homestay with Crossroads Cultural Exchange

If you should ever have the privilege to visit a Moroccan’s home, or to even stay overnight, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Woman laying on a Moroccan couch made up as a bed

Heating and Air Conditioning - Building construction is typically brick and mortar, and central heating is non-existent. Some Moroccans use heaters in the winter months and air conditioning in the summer, but do not expect this (it is fairly rare). Newer construction often comes with heating and air conditioning built into the wall, but these would not be found in every room. Our experience in the winter in Fes was that being inside buildings was oftentimes colder than being outside. For my wife, a hot water bottle was key to surviving the cold (and still is!).
Bathrooms - One bathroom in an entire house or apartment is very common. For the most part, if you are in a city you can expect a modern Western toilet. However, there may be places where a Turkish toilet is found. Toilet paper can usually be thrown directly into the toilet as opposed to throwing it in the trash can, unless directed otherwise.
Wifi - Do not expect Moroccan homes to have wifi. Our homestay family did have Wifi, which was very convenient. However, most Moroccans use data on their phones to access the internet.
Rooms - Privacy is not the same as it is in the West. Guests are often offered the bedroom, with the rest of the family sleeping on the couches (froshes) in the salons. There is usually an informal sitting room, and also the formal guest salon, which is seldom used except for special occasions and guests. With our host family, we only sat in the guest salon on one or two instances. Even though we slept in the bedroom, the family still entered the room in the evening and during the day to access their closet and the deep freezer.
Time - We did an exceptionally long homestay, and you can usually stay with a family for the length of time of your choosing - one night, one week, etc.
Place - Fes is a very traditional city for doing a homestay, especially in the old medina. However, you can organize a homestay in most cities and even small towns.
Activities - We bonded with our homestay family over Celine Dion music on YouTube and Jenga, which was a game that required very little communication but provided loads of fun. Other friends take with them games like Uno and Farkle that can be played with very little language abilities. Women may want to learn some Moroccan cooking skills during their homestay. It is great to bond with people over a shared interest or fun activity, so think a little about what those may be before you start your homestay.
Gifts - If you know in advance that you will do a homestay in Morocco, it would be a nice gesture to bring a small gift for your homestay family.
Be a gracious guest - In this article, we shared about how to be a gracious guest while visiting Morocco. Make sure to read those tips and advice in preparation for your homestay.

Two women standing outside of a doorway in the old Medina.

Is a homestay easy? My experience is that it is not. However, it is worth it? Yes, I would say that it was extremely valuable to help us learn the culture and to get a behind the scenes look at Moroccan life. One of our most memorable - but challenging experiences - was when a family of five showed up expectedly and stayed with our family for three nights. The single bedroom apartment already contained six adults, so upon their arrival there were 11 of us sharing the space…with one bathroom.

An Afternoon in the Life

An anticlimactic account of a typical afternoon during our homestay

…“Two minutes.” My homestay father hands me the helmet as he scurries off. As I wait, I wonder what I have gotten myself into…

It has only been an hour since I discovered that my host family owned a moped, and it had only been a few minutes later that the host father asked if I wanted to go for a ride with him. “Of course,” I responded in my broken Arabic. I have only been in language classes for a few weeks, but early on I learned how to say, “Yes,” “No,” “Of course,” and a dozen other random words and phrases. We had spent the majority of our time in class working on greetings and family, because in this culture those things are very important.

…my homestay father is back, and he’s pushing his moped. My excitement starts to build. “Sit.” He points to the back of the moped as he postures himself at the front. He revs the motor as I try as confidently as possible to climb onto the back. He is dressed in his traditional djellaba, head protected by a helmet. I place my arms around his midsection, and he accelerates…

…My homestay father raises his left hand to acknowledge the car in the round-about that has yielded to our small vehicle. Over the next few minutes, he amazes me with his hand motions, confidence, and awareness as we weave through traffic. We cruise past the new mall on our left and eventually arrive at a travel agency. A smile is plastered across my face as I pull off my helmet. He asks me what I think of our ride, to which I reply, “mezian” (good/great)…

…As we pass through the door of the travel agency, my homestay father greets everyone. “Did he work here at one point?” I wonder. He introduces me to the man who appears to be in charge and he is somewhat surprised that I know a few words of Arabic. He is not surprised for long, though, as our conversation quickly escalates to words that I do not recognize, and I resort to just nodding my head. I look around at the various posters on the wall - one shows sand dunes and another shows flights of Air Arabia - while my homestay father hops from conversation to conversation, with moments of long-silence in between. When he says, “Let’s go,” I wonder, “Were we here just to talk to friends?”…

A few days later I realize the purpose of our stop at the travel agency. At our 9:30pm dinner, our homestay father shares with us that he has traveled to Mecca on three separate occasions (as a guide and a participant). This year, he will be traveling there again as a guide during Ramadan, and the stop at the travel agency was to check on the details of his upcoming trip.

…We zoom past a mosque and continue along a main road, passing many cafes along the way, all of them full of men. A few minutes later we stop at a large park, and my homestay father halts the moped. We climb off and he greets a few men working at a mobile food stand. “Your friends?” I ask, and he nods in affirmation. “Wow, he knows everyone!” I think to myself. The friends are serving chickpea soup and snails. Yes, snails. I politely decline…

…“Fifteen minutes.” My homestay father motions for me to stay seated as he heads across the park to the nearby mosque so that he can pray. Moments earlier I had heard the familiar call to prayer that occurs five times a day…

…I get antsy, so I start circling around the park. Before I can finish my second lap, my homestay father returns and we hop back onto the moped. After stopping to ask directions a few different times, we finally make it to our ultimate destination - a friend’s coffee shop. I watch an Argentine soccer game on television as my homestay father chats with his friend. I’m not sure how long we will be here, nor how many more stops we will make, but I am content…

Should you consider a Moroccan homestay?

A Moroccan homestay is an excellent opportunity for language practice if you are learning Moroccan Arabic. If you want to take your language abilities to the next level, consider doing a Moroccan homestay.
A Moroccan homestay is the best way to experience true Moroccan culture and hospitality. Sure, riads and hotels can be great, and Moroccan food in restaurants is still wonderful, but there is no substitute for being in a Moroccan family’s home. The time of connection and the experience of hospitality is unparalleled with any other experience. If you want to learn about Moroccan culture and experience real Moroccan hospitality, consider doing a Moroccan homestay.

Moroccan Berber-style living room with cushions on the floor — Are you interested in experiencing a Moroccan homestay?

We can help you arrange a homestay with a Moroccan family during your trip. Contact us to learn more.

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Morocco is a very unique country for several reasons. The first is its strategic location in the northwest of the continent of Africa, just 14 kilometers south of Europe. This beautiful country is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea in the North, the Atlantic Ocean in the West, Algeria to the East, and Mauritania to the South. For this reason, Morocco is a crossroads where cultures, civilizations, and ethnicities meet.

Once upon a time there was a man who had three daughters and, wishing to depart on pilgrimage, asked each of them what he should bring back for her.

“Gold and silver bracelets crusted with gems,” said the eldest. “Gilded slippers,” said the second. But the youngest asked time to reflect before she answered. As soon as she found herself alone in her own chamber, a Rouhaniya (a fairy) appeared before her, saying: “Ask your father to bring you The Kaftan (traditional piece of Moroccan clothing worn by women) of Love Spotted with Passion.”

Visitors to Morocco may take a tour that includes the four “Imperial Cities of Morocco,” a phrase that may be heard frequently but rarely explained. Fez, Marrakesh, Meknes, and Rabat have all been capital cities of Morocco at some point in history, which is why they are considered the Imperial Cities of Morocco. In this article, you will learn more about their history and why they might be worth a visit.

A Homestay Experience in the Old Medina of Fes

After almost a half year in Morocco learning Darija, I felt ready to take the plunge. Wanting to stay at a place for multiple months, I was advised to try out a couple of different homes. So I decided to dip my toes in for just a week at first.

Cultural Stories: The Language of the Birds

Once upon a time, there was a rich merchant in Fez who was in despair because he had no child. Also, his advanced age seemed to forbid him any hope in this respect. But his desire was so great that he asked one of his friends, who lived at a great distance, to come to visit him and to give him advice. This friend was a magician. When he had consulted his art, he said: “ You will have a son.”

Cultural Stories: The Carpenter’s Daughter

Once upon a time, there was a poor carpenter whose wife died in childbirth, leaving a daughter on his hands; in truth, a beautiful baby, but one whose upkeep was a grave burden upon her father, and who therefore seemed to have been born under very sad auspices. How could the unfortunate man take care of his child when he had no money, no relations, no slave, and was worn out by his work?

Reading and reflecting on the fairy tales, myths, folktales, proverbs, and sayings from another culture help us gain insight into that culture in ways we otherwise may not glean. Let’s look together at on such tale, called The Fatal House, taken from Tales of Fes.

“What have we gotten ourselves into?” I asked myself as our car scraped the rocks beneath us. We were traversing a dried river bed in search of our lodging for the night, and my mind was racing to the reaction of the rental car company when we returned the car in a few days. “How much is it going to cost if we total the vehicle?” I continued wondering.

Taking the suggestion of our friend to visit the “super cool” ruins, my wife and I decided to visit. On a recent trip from Azrou to Casablanca, Cailyn and I drove to Volubilis to check out the ancient Roman ruins of Volubilis. The centuries-old site is located about 30 minutes north of the city of Meknes. Volubilis is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is definitely worth a visit.

When visiting a foreign country, many people come as tourists, excited to visit the world-renowned places, eat the local food, and move around as easily and efficiently as possible. However, it takes additional effort to visit a place as a guest, striving to know local people, understanding the culture and norms, and experiencing authentic life.

Cultural Stories: Lalla Khallal El Khadra

William Gudykunst said, “One of the major factors influencing our effectiveness in communicating with people from other cultures is our ability to understand their culture.” Communication is about more than just the words we say; it is about both language and culture, what we communicate through words and actions. Here at Crossroads Cultural Exchange, we believe that we can't separate learning language from learning culture. As one of out teachers says, "Culture is the spirit of a language."

What We Learned During Our First Cultural Tour

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The small city of Azrou is the Capital of Amazigh Culture. With a population of around 80,000 people, this city tucked into the Northern end of the Atlas Mountains is a peaceful escape from the larger cities of Fes and Meknes. Azrou is known for its distinctive rock located in the middle of town (from which it gets its name), and for the Cèdre Gouraud Forest, home to a nearly 800-year-old cedar tree and to the Barbary macaque monkey. The town itself is unique in Morocco because it is built in the European style with red-tiled roofs that allow the buildings to withstand large amounts of snow in the winter.

Three Reasons Morocco is a Great Place to Study Language

A week of my life in Morocco rarely goes by without a Moroccan asking me about how I have learned Moroccan Arabic. People are always surprised and awed that I have learned the local language here. In other countries, local people would perhaps not be as impressed that foreigners have learned the language, but in Morocco, people are always amazed and excited by this.

Marrakech (or Marrakesh) is the fourth largest city in Morocco, with a population of around 1 million people. Marrakech is one of the four Imperial Cities of Morocco but is the most popular city for tourists. The medina quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the entire city is distinctive because of its red sandstone walls—which date back to the 1100s—earning it the nickname, “The Red City.”

A herd of sheep encroached upon the side of the road. My senses heightened, I slowed down as I eyed the ewe bouncing toward the white stripe. “Stay away,” I thought to myself. Past the sheep was a rolling forest. Where was I? Not in some far-off rural mountain setting in Morocco. No, I was on the interstate highway just past Rabat.

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As I was researching the topic of hospitality, I was struck by how many proverbs and sayings there are about hospitality that sound very negative. It seems like while hospitality is a beautiful idea, in practice the reality doesn’t always live up to the expectations. While we have been living in Morocco, we have learned so much about hospitality in hot-climate cultures.

Laughter. That is something that I fondly remember during our three months of homestay with a Moroccan family. Whether it be our search for the TV remote, or our karaoke singing to Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On,” we laughed together. There were also times of difficulty as we tried to communicate cross-culturally and cross-linguistically. Even though there were some challenging experiences, both my wife and I learned a tremendous amount about Moroccan culture by living with a local family.

Moroccans tend to speak and understand a variety of languages. Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is the most prevalent spoken language in Morocco, which is technically a dialect of the Arabic language. Modern Standard Arabic, or Fossha, is literary Arabic that is used in writing and in official communication. Hassaniya Arabic is the dialect spoken in the southern part of the county.

When most people picture Morocco, they think of the desert with beautiful golden sand dunes. Morocco does have those quintessential dunes, but you do have to go pretty far out of your way to get to them. Namely, you can have a wonderful desert experience by traveling to Merzouga, which is a small village (around 400 people) in southeastern Morocco, only about 50 km (31 miles) to the Algerian border.

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The sister cities of Rabat and Salé sit along the Atlantic coast, separated from each other by the Bou Regreg River. Straight across the Atlantic Ocean is Wilmington, North Carolina. Rabat is the political capital of Morocco and is home to many embassies and consulates. The populations of Rabat and Salé are approximately 580,000 and 890,000, respectively.

Whenever we are planning to travel, one of the things we have to think about is packing. Are you someone who makes a packing list and diligently checks off every item well in advance of the night before? Or are you a last-minute scrambler, throwing everything in the bag and hoping you didn’t forget anything?

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In my experience, little is more frustrating than when money situations don’t meet expectations. This article is written to help you understand how to obtain local currency in Morocco, the Moroccan Dirham. Morocco is primarily a cash-based country, so while you can use a credit/debit card in certain places, you will need cash for many transactions.

homestay

Michael Wheatley

A Moroccan Homestay

An Afternoon in the Life

Should you consider a Moroccan homestay?

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